Monday, March 13, 2006

R/C Drifting

I'm in to R/C drifting, I have been for about a year or so now, it's more fun than racing, and doesn't get as expensive! The Art of Drifting is not about getting across the finish line first, rather it is judged by the angle, speed and duration of the drift around a corner. There's a growing online community, from all corners of the globe, and it's cool to se how they've all come together online. Some of the forums I'm a member of are:
DRC
GroovyDrift
RCDori
RC-Drift

Part of the reason I enjoy RCDrifting is that the bodies are much more detailed than racing or touring car shells. They are made to look much more scale than the aerodynamic shells favoured in racing. Usually a drift car is a 4WD touring car, with modified tyres and suspension. Many RC producers such as Tamiya , Yokomo and HPI now produce kits that are aimed specifically at RC drifters. Many drifters will also add extra details to their car, for example, adding internal rollcages or dummy intercoolers. One of the most popular modifcations of all is to add headlights. There are many ways to do this, either by fitting a factory made light kit, or by building a custom installation from components.
I have such a home made setup in my BMW E30 M3, which is switched on and off using the 3rd channel on my radio. I removed the gears and motor form a standard servo, and connected a set of LEDs to the motor terminals. This allows me to control the voltage fed to the LEDs using the circuit in the servo, an dmeans I don't have to add resistors to protect the LEDs.

Recently I've been thinking of a way to create working brakelights to an electric RC car. One method was to wire a set of LEDs across the terminals of a motor, but this doesn't work because the Speed controller doesn't apply a constant voltage to the motor, but a series of high freqeuncy pulses, so the LEDs are constantly on. My next plan is to split the signal from thethe receiver to the speed controller (ESC) to run a similar servo setup as I did for the headlights. this will require a Y harness to split the leads, as I dont' have the parts to scarifice at the moment. More details as I think of them!

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